In this Installment:
Hot Peppers in Olive Oil from Italy
Though Francesco di Mauro, founder of IASA, was a fisherman by trade he wsa always innovating and one of the earliest innovations he brought about early in the company’s tenure was the addition of fermented chiles to tins of anchovies and tins of tuna. Francesco grew up with the method when he was young, but no one in Salerno was including anything like chiles in their products. Francesco thought he could “invent” a new product and really stand out in the marketplace. Boy was he right! People loved the chiles so much, they eventually wanted to buy them plain and not tinned up with fish!
You can even add Ari Weinzweig, co-founder of Zingerman’s Deli to the list of fans. That’s how I found out about them in the first place. According to my friend and importer friend, Jeff Bergman, Ari “buys these chiles by the case.” You see, “no one at Zingerman’s is selling them.” Jeff explained, “so I sell and ship Ari a case whenever he needs some. And he seems to need a new case every month!”
After one taste I could easily see why. But don’t worry about Ari. We’ll be stocking these chiles on our shelves as a standard item this summer.
The chiles are grown throughout the Amalfi Coast and they are spicy, let me tell you. The older I get the more I enjoy spicy flavors, though, and what I find so alluring about these is how the heat hits you first in the cheeks, then on the tongue, but it doesn’t mask every other flavor you’re eating. To whit, the spicy peppers make your tastebuds perk up like spikes, punching through other rich or buttery flavors and bringing the whole arrangement back in play. They’re bright and they’re fun.
The spicy chiles (called ‘Amante’ by locals) are mashed and mixed with olive oil and allowed to hang out for a few months till their ready for spice loving folks like us. Start slow when you begin to experiment with these chiles. A little goes a long way.
Ube & Coconut Purple Yam Spread
Ube is sort of having a moment. The colorful variety of sweet potato is more common in Southeast Asia than it might be here in the States, but we’re beginning to see the flavor work its way into confections and cuisine in wonderful ways.
“Kaya” or “srikaya” or any other version of the name is a coconut spread that’s very popular as a breakfast treat on toast in Indonesia and throughout the region. You toast up some thick slices of bread and slather on the coconut jam and it’s delicious. That’s basically what we have here: a similar, sweet coconut spread that’s accentuated with the earthy sweetness and bright purple color of the ube sweet potato (yam).
It should feel thick and smooth in the pouch and after a quick twist of the cap, it’s easy to spread on toast or biscuits or shortbread and enjoy as an easy snack or dessert. You like yogurt parfaits? Layer some yogurt and granola and fruit and then top with a purple dollop of this Ube & Coconut spread. Top a cheesecake with this spread. Mix with whipped cream and create a lighter, sweet spread you can slather atop all sorts of baked goods and sweet treats. I probably wouldn’t mix it with the chiles you also received, but who knows? You could create something really special in the process!