Challah, without the eggs.

In the US, when we think of challah, we typically think of the eastern European version. Fluffy and golden from the addition of eggs, it is traditionally served for dinner on Friday night, at the start of the Sabbath. The rich, sweet bread made with white flour would have been a luxury after a week of workaday brown bread like rye or pumpernickel.

But eastern Europe isn’t the only place with a challah tradition. In Germany, there’s a long history of a challah that’s locally called berches. It, too, was traditionally served as a special once-a-week loaf on Friday nights. Unlike its eastern European counterpart, it’s made without eggs. Instead it includes a bit of potato—a technique from long ago used to add moisture to the dough and to stretch the supply of precious white flour. Compared to the golden challahs we know best in the US, German challah is sturdier in texture, darker in color with a slightly thicker crust, and the sweetness is balanced with roasty/toasty/nutty rich flavors.

Serve it alongside a special meal, but don’t stop there. Toast it for Sunday morning brunch. Slather it with butter for an afternoon snack. Use it for sandwiches with cold cuts or jam.