Sweet Yellow Brazilian Coffee

Look at any decent wine list in a restaurant or the display of bottles in a shop, and you’ll see the wines arranged by country (or region) of origin, and then by the kind of grape. Then take a look at the selection of coffees available at a specialty coffee shop. For years we’ve been buying coffee based on the country it comes from; buying it based on the kind of bean is a newer development.

There’s more out there than just Arabica and Robusta.

Most people have heard of Arabica and Robusta, the two most common types of coffee. Conventional wisdom says that Arabica beans, which tend to be sweeter, softer, and have higher acidity, are better than the more hardy, higher-yielding Robusta. But there’s a whole lot more to the story. Just like there are hundreds of different wine grapes out there, under the umbrellas of Arabica and Robusta there are hundreds of different coffee cultivars, too. (By the way, we use the word “cultivar” to indicate a variety that has been cultivated by people, rather than a “varietal” that developed on its own in nature.)

Our Sweet Yellow Brazilian coffee is a blend of three Arabica cultivars: Yellow Bourbon, Catuai, and Caturra. The “sweet” and “yellow” part of the name comes from the qualities of the cultivars. Yellow Bourbon is known for being particularly sweet, while Catuai and Caturra contribute more acidity for balance. All three cultivars have bright yellow cherries when they’re ripe (like the coffee cherries on the left in the above photo). The bean we roast is the seed of the cherry; the flesh of the cherry is removed during processing.

A lot of coffee cultivars are pretty new.

In the grape world, Cabernet Sauvignon qualifies as a “relatively recent” development since it’s only been grown since the 17th century. While grapes have been grown for wine for millennia, coffee has only been cultivated since the 15th century. Many of the coffee cultivars that are making a name for themselves today have only been in production for a few decades.

All three of the cultivars in Sweet Yellow are fairly young, and all Brazilian in origin. Their story starts in 1871, when the first Bourbon beans were brought to Brazil from the Island of Bourbon off the coast of Madagascar. The first Caturra beans showed up about 35 years later; they were was a natural mutation of Bourbon beans. The first Yellow Bourbon beans were discovered in 1930, a hybrid of Bourbon and a local cultivar with yellow cherries. Catuai was developed in 1949 as a cross between Caturra and another local cultivar.

Once you’ve got the beans, you need to treat them carefully to get great coffee.

Each year, due to changes in weather or other variable factors, each of the three cultivars in Sweet Yellow may be a bit different. The growers at DaTerra estate watch these changes carefully and make adjustments to the blend to produce a consistent cup of coffee. Some years they may adjust the ratio of each cultivar, or they may adjust how each cultivar is processed to achieve the desired flavor: nutty, chocolatey, with good acidity and a clean finish. By the time each batch of Sweet Yellow is shipped up to our Coffee Company to be roasted, it’s been tasted (and potentially fine tuned) a dozen times on the estate to ensure it’s exactly what we want.

What we do with the coffee at home has a big impact, too.

The baristas at Zingerman’s Coffee Company particularly recommend brewing the Sweet Yellow in a chemex, with a syphon, or as an espresso. Each different brewing method with emphasize slightly different qualities in the coffee and give us slightly different flavors. But don’t worry if your kitchen isn’t decked out with all the latest in coffee gadgetry; I’ve brewed a great pot of drip coffee using the Sweet Yellow, too. And don’t worry about having to drink it all right away—Sweet Yellow stays bright, smooth, and delicious even after it’s cooled down to room temperature.

Just like certain wines pair better with certain foods, certain coffees are better alongside certain foods, too. The cocoa notes of Sweet Yellow make it a natural pair for chocolate; I love it alongside our hot cocoa coffeecake or a chocolate dipped fig for an indulgent mid-morning snack. It’s bright acidity also goes well with citrus, like mandarin oranges. And its moderate, well-balanced body make it an ideal cup for starting off your morning—especially alongside some waffles or pancakes.

In 2003, when Zingerman’s Coffee Company first started roasting coffee, small, specialty coffee roasters were few and far between. A decade ago, specialty coffee was beginning to find a foothold, but it was still a nerdy, niche product with a limited audience. Today, the story has changed. Even a small town is likely to have at least a couple of offbeat coffee shops serving locally roasted brews. (In the rural town of 30,000 I call home, we have four.) A big city may have dozens of independent coffee roasters.

Across the nation, specialty coffee follows certain trends.

As specialty coffee has become more ubiquitous, in many cases it’s also become more generic. Many roasters make similar boasts: they source directly from small growers, sharing details like the name of the farms or farmers, the type of coffee beans grown, and the processing methods. That transparency is great, and it’s wonderful to see the hard work of coffee growers celebrated. But for all the specificity, it’s often hard for someone who isn’t a professional coffee cupper to tell the difference between one brew and another. These days, specialty coffee tends to be synonymous with lightly roasted beans that produce highly acidic, fruity brewed coffee. If jammy coffee isn’t your jam, you may be stuck with the one token dark roast that a shop offers.

Zingerman’s Coffee Company has never been about the trends.

While the specialty coffee landscape around Zingerman’s Coffee Company has changed significantly in its 21 years in business, the operation here in Ann Arbor has largely remained the same. That consistency plays out in many ways. For one, from the beginning, the Zingerman’s roasting crew have selected a wide range of beans, with a few offerings hitting lighter, medium, and darker roast profiles. As flavor fads have come and gone, the Zingerman’s crew have continued serving a range of tastes.

Behind that range of flavors, we have long standing relationships with many of the folks who grow our coffees. While other shops may not have much to share about a grower beyond their name and a photo or two, we focus on building long-term relationships with our growers. We’ve sold coffee from Hacienda Miramonte in Costa Rica every year for a decade. It’s been even longer since we started working with the DaTerra Estate in Brazil. Over those years of partnership, we’ve traveled down to visit the estates—and they’ve come up to visit us in Ann Arbor, too. Together, we’ve worked on experimental microlots to discover the impacts of very specific terroirs. We’ve tried out different processing methods to tease new flavors out of coffees. These aren’t the kinds of partnerships that spring up overnight. Our long, strong relationships have given us deeper understanding of the coffees, and better access to exceptional beans.

A decade from now, I can’t predict how the specialty coffee market will have shifted. But I can bet that the coffees from Zingerman’s Coffee Company will continue to produce excellent, easy to love brews.

Pretty much everyone professes a desire to drink better coffee. Of course what constitutes “better” isn’t the same thing for everyone. For me a great coffee is complex. It’s well balanced. It’s got a nice nose and nice finish. Bad coffee? Again, it’s a personal thing, but to me bad coffee is usually thin textured, watery, flat-tasting, and frequently overwhelmed by off flavors like excessive sourness, a burned flavor, paperiness, etc.

Aside from educating my palate with tasting after tasting, probably the biggest single thing I’ve learned from it all is just how much the same exact beans can taste totally different depending on how they’re handled. Basically, brewed coffee quality can be very, very variable. It’s become ever clearer to me that even the most carefully sourced and roasted coffee beans can only get you a small way to where you want to go on your quest for quality. The grind, the water, the method, the age of the beans, the volume of ground coffee used…it’s not a simple thing.

That said, here are the things I’ve learned that any of us can do to radically increase the odds of consuming a better cup of coffee at home.

Buy Better Beans

I will tell you truthfully and with great confidence that there is a really big difference between great coffee beans and so-so stuff. I am very confident that even the biggest skeptic really can tell the difference pretty darned quickly if they just decide that they want to. This is where all of our head roastmaster Steve’s homework has paid off with connections to the most quality-conscious brokers in the US, enabling us to get hold of some really special green beans.

Use Enough Coffee

As simple as it seems, this really could be the single biggest offending action at issue in the world of home brewing. The generally recommended ratio is two tablespoons of ground beans per six-ounce cup. Even if you like weaker coffee you’re better off to brew at that ratio and then add hot water to thin your cup. Paul puts three coffee scoops of whole beans into his grinder for each 8-ounce cup of water he’s using. If you’re calculating pounds in decimals, as I like to do, it’s about .45 ounces for an 8-ounce cup. I’m sorry for all the confusion but it’s become clear to me that part of the problem is that everyone is using different measurements and, consequently, ending up with really variable coffee quality even if they start with the same exact beans.

Store the Coffee Well

That would mean in an airtight glass jar. Probably at room temperature, and stored in a dry cabinet where it’s away from the light, for no more than a week after you get it home. Although there are those who like to keep the coffee in the freezer, most folks I’ve talked to of late have given up on the idea; there is little to be gained and you run the risk of causing condensation inside the jar which will ruin your brew.

Grind Right

Your best bet is to buy a good grinder and grind at home right before you brew. My personal choice right now is to use one of the old-fashioned hand held German coffee mills that we’ve gotten hold of—they’re quieter, they look good, they’ve got a really great set of perfectly tooled gears inside. They don’t heat the beans in the least. They’re incredibly easy to use. And they’ve got a ten-year warranty on ‘em. For more on these old fashioned—yet marvelously modern when it comes to the actual grinding mechanism—check them out online.

If you want to stick with electronically powered machines, the best I think are the burr grinders. Like the old-fashioned hand driven mills above, these actually grind the coffee (as opposed to the chopping action you get from the ones with those little whirring blades). Whatever grinding method you might use, keep in mind the amount of time it takes to grind. A fifteen count is about right. Once you’re happy with the timing, the burr grinders give you the option of presetting the timing so that you get a higher level of consistency. If you’re using the blade style, stop a couple times to shake the beans so you get even grinding. Too fine will lead to bitterness. Too course and you lose flavor.

Use Better Water

Since nearly all of what we actually end up with in our cup is water, not coffee, it’s kind of clear that the better the water we use, the better tasting the brew will be. Filtered water will help a great deal—you may not recognize your current coffee purchases if you switch from tap water to filtered (I will say though that if you’ve become accustomed to tap water you may not like the “cleaner” taste of coffee brewed with filtered water when you first try it). Regardless it should be clean and cold. And be careful not to ever overboil.

If you brew the exact same coffee—same origin, same roasting—with different methods, the flavor of the drink can be dramatically different. Take Zingerman’s Coffee Company’s Espresso Blend No. 1. As you might guess from the name, this blend of beans from the Daterra Estate in Brazil was developed with espresso in mind, and it produces a great shot: rich with flavors of dark chocolate and a sweet nuttiness. But that doesn’t mean you have to prepare it as espresso. If you made it in a French press, the flavor becomes lighter and brighter, with notes of white cake, chestnut, and blood orange. Prepared in an aeropress the flavor changes again, now emphasizing creamy caramel notes with a hint of spice. And brewing the espresso blend in a Clever cup draws out toasty cocoa notes and a rich, full body. Brew the espresso blend in each of these four different ways and taste the four cups side by side, the differences are striking. None of these different brewing methods are “right” or “wrong”—at the end of the day, the only taste that counts is yours, and whichever way you like your coffee is the right way.

Six superior home brewing methods.

You could use your regular brewing method to make any Zingerman’s coffee at home. You’d make yourself an excellent cup of coffee. Try a different method, and you’ll create different flavors. Here are my favorite brew and coffee combos. Each brings a coarser- or finer-ground coffee in touch with hot water and pressure in a slightly different way. Try some variations at Zingerman’s Coffee Company’s cafe in Ann Arbor—it’s an amazing experience. Or stay home and check out all the possibilities on our Big Brew Board.

1. Roadhouse Joe Coffee brewed in an automatic drip pot
Our perennial best-selling coffee, the Roadhouse Joe blend is a mix of Papua New Guinean, Costa Rican, Indian and Brazilian Peaberry beans. We’ve served it every day alongside breakfast (and brunch, and lunch, and dinner) at Zingerman’s Roadhouse restaurant for over a decade. Brewed in a standard automatic drip machine (like the kind most of us have on our kitchen counters at home), it’s nutty and balanced.

2. Espresso Blend No. 1 prepared as espresso
Made from a blend of coffee varietals all grown on the Daterra Estate in Brazil, our house espresso blend is especially great as espresso—luxuriously thick crema, with flavors of dark chocolate and sweet nuts—but it’s great brewed just about any other way, too.

3. Ethiopian Guji Coffee brewed in a press pot
Ethiopian coffees often have intensely fruity flavors, almost like biting into a handful of juicy berries. This coffee, from Ethiopia’s Oromia region, is no exception. Brewed in a press pot (also called a French press), the flavor is so light and bright it’s almost tea like, with acidic notes of lemon and blueberry.

4. Sumatra Mandheling Coffee brewed as a pourover
Sumatran coffees tend to be on the full-bodied, dark, earthy, wild end of the coffee flavor spectrum. When this one from the Jegarang Region of Indonesia is made as a manual pourover—which is basically drip coffee made by hand—those deep, earthy notes find balance with hints of butterscotch, almond, pecan, and banana.

5. Uganda Rwenzori Coffee brewed with an aeropress
The beans are handpicked, then undergo a dry, “natural” processing, whereby the coffee cherries are dried for 18-20 days with the fruit of the cherry intact around the coffee “bean” seed. Drying the beans with the fruit intact can give the coffee beans a notably fruity flavor. Brewing it with an aeropress—a 21st-century take on a French press that uses pressure to quickly brew a single smooth, clean cup—particularly emphasizes those bright, fruity flavors.

6. Costa Rica Hacienda Miramonte Coffee brewed with a syphon
At the peak of the season, the most experienced pickers harvest the ripest coffee cherries just for us from a micro-lot on the Hacienda Miramonte estate. When brewed using a syphon—the science-experimenty looking brew equipment seen at some specialty coffee shops and the occasional serious coffee-lover’s home—the flavors are rich and complex with a pleasant toffee note.

Why are dark coffees confused with strong coffees? This is one of the most common misperceptions in the coffee world and the starting point for frequent conversations with customers. When someone is browsing Zingerman’s coffees for the first time they often ask, “Which is your darkest coffee? I like strong coffees.”

This question really hits on two very different, often confused, aspects of brewed coffee: roast color and brew strength. Roast color does not necessarily affect how strong a coffee tastes. Brew strength will always affect how strong it tastes.

Roast color affects what flavors you taste but not necessarily how much of them you taste. In very dark roasted coffees, the pleasant characteristics of the bean – sweet, floral notes and other aromas – are burned away. They are replaced by bitter components, often a charred flavor. We’re sensitive to those bitter flavors and sometimes mistake them for strength. Dark coffees aren’t necessarily stronger, though. They’re just darker.

It’s brew strength that really makes a coffee intense. Chances are, when you say you like strong coffee, this is what you mean. Technically brew strength is a measure of dissolved coffee solids in your cup. A strong coffee is one with more solids.

A lot of formal research has gone into the measurement of “optimal strength” coffees. Coffee experts will often tell us how much ground coffee we should have for how much water. To some extent, these guidelines are helpful. Too much coffee will start to taste bitter. Too little may taste pleasant but thin or watery, lacking body. I have my own personal opinions and preferences for brew strength. My professional opinion is that nearly everyone errs on the side of too little coffee. But in the end it’s your taste that counts, so find a brew strength that works for you.